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CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2023 |
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ALPAMAYO (5947 m. - 19 511 ft.), "The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World" |
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The Alpamayo in Quechua: (Allpa: Earth, Mayu: River) means Dirty River, name from Valley not where there was a flood, to the overflow of the Jancarurish lake, on October 20, 1950. It forms an almost perfect pyramid of ice seen by the Northern side, quebrada los Cedros - Alpamayo trekking route. Despite being considerably smaller than the |
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nearby mountains, it is distinguished by its unusual symmetry and lush appearance. It is one of several peaks of the massif of Santa Cruz, in the northern part of the Cordillera Blanca.
It is one of the most striking peaks of the Cordillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes and has been declared by the magazine Alpinismus as "The most beautiful mountain in the world", world scenic photography competition held in Munich - Germany in 1966. Photo submitted by the Mr. Cesar Morales Arnao of Alpamayo, sided pyramid NE.
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B. Lauterbug, R. Schmidt and F. Sigrist expedition Switzerland in 1948, were the first to climb the glacier from the Jancarurish lake and reaching the Col North.
Franco-Belgian Expedition of 1951 climbed the north ridge to the North Summit 5930 m
On July 20, 1957 Günter Hauser and his colleagues warned the error to ascend by the South edge to the true Summit of Alpamayo, South Summit 5947 m.
Both peaks are separated by an edge with dizzying cornices that Britons Bathgate and Smith toured in July 1966. |
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The further ascent route employed in recent years located in the face SW, that is entered by the quebrada de Santa Cruz, opened by an expedition of Italian alpinists led by C. Ferrari on June 20, 1975, it is considered a difficult route that requires crampons and technique ice axe.
The scene that comes before the eyes of the climber, in which icy walls of Huandoy Norte, Artesonraju and Huascaran Norte, much resemble the geography of the Himalayas.
There is an alternative route known as the Direct Francesa, which has been done in recent years. It is optional and not strictly necessary to the accomplishment of some climbs or as acclimatization trekking routes, the ALPAMAYO requires a mid-level technical climbing route that follows has a slope between 55° to 90° in its part more slope inclination and a distance of 400 meters of wall. |
Approach Route to Base Camp:
From Huaraz to the Alpamayo Base Camp: is reached via the Huaraz - Caraz (68 km) paved road, from here continue on road of Caraz - Cashpampa (30 km). Starts with the walk of ascent until the first camp of Llamacorral (3760 m.), ascending by the Santa Cruz Valley, reaching the Alpamayo Base camp, in the second camp. It requires usually 2 days for this approach.
Climbing Route
The route of ascent from the Base Camp in the Arhuaycocha gully I high field is not technically difficult, the first part of the ascent is in zone of shrubs as it progresses, is changing of ground moraine with large and polished rocks, the trail is slightly marked, milestones that are pointing the path can be seen, there are some platforms in the moraine area ideal for |
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camping (moraine camp), after entering the glacier goes ascending on easy ramps and dodging cracks, until reaching collado, last once the wall of the Hill (approximately 80 m. in 55° - 65°), then descends to High Camp I - 5400 m. located between the mountains of Quitaraju and Alpamayo.
From 5400 m. High Camp is descendant to the base of the wall, then it moves up through the lower part of the bergschrund, already on the wall is between 55° to 80° and 90° in the final part , the continuous channel up to the Summit, descends along the same route to High Camp.
By:
Scheler Torres Agama
* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide
* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)
* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP),
official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).
* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru
Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL
Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú
Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash
* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA Ancash)
* Tour Operator - Adventure Tourism Service Provider (DIRCETUR Ancash)
www.schelerhuayhuashtrek.com
www.trekkinghuayhuashperu.com |
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PROGRAM INFORMATION |
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Duration of the program: |
06 - 07 days. |
Type of circuit: |
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape. |
Activity: |
Climbing. |
Altitude: |
5947 m. (19,507 ft). |
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Caraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo Valley (North) - Arhuaycocha Valley (South East).
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Massif: |
Santa Cruz - Cordillera Blanca. |
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8° 52′ 44″ S
77° 39′ 10″ W |
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Caraz - Cashapampa - Santa Cruz Valley - Arhuaycocha Valley. |
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On July 20, 1957 Günter Hauser and his colleagues warned error ascends the South ridge to the true Alpamayo Summit, South Summit 5947 m. |
Escalation path: |
French directly. SW Face. |
Minimum altitude: |
Caraz 2290 m. |
Maximum altitude: |
Alpamayo Summit 5947 m. |
Degree of difficulty: |
D+ - Hard - Technical Climbing. |
Season: |
June to August. |
Climate: |
Cold, dry and temperate. |
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From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided. |
Fixed departures: |
June to August |
Program code: |
SAT/ECB 014-E |
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ITINERARY
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ITINERARY 07 days: |
Day 1: Huaraz 3100 m. - Caraz 2290 m. - Cashapampa 2973 m. - Llamacorral 3760 m.
Travel by bus about 3 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.
Departure and transfer from Huaraz to Caraz city, then the town of Cashapampa, from this town started the trek to the Llamacorral Camp .
Day 2: Llama Corral 3760 m. - Alpamayo Base Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.
Departure after breakfast, you will visit Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha lakes,
in the way we see the snowcapped as Aguja, Caraz, Quitaraju, Pumapampa, Curuicashajana, Taulliraju, Rinrinjirca, Alpamayo, Pucarashta, Pucahirca, Artesonraju, |
Paria, Millishraju, etc.. Arriving at the Base Camp of Alpamayo in the Valley Arhuaycocha, installation and preparation of materials for climbing.
Day 3: Base Camp 4300 m. - High Camp 5400 m. (Coll Camp Quitaraju - Alpamayo). Walk approximately 6 to 7 hours.
Departure after breakfast,
climb up the moraine and then enter the glacier east of Alpamayo;
Camp I, is the High Camp or Col of Alpamayo and Quitaraju mountains, glacier camp at 5400 m.
Day 4: High Camp 5400 m. - Alpamayo Summit 5947 m. Climbing approximately 9 to 12 hours.
Approximate departure at 1:00 a.m.
Ascent at 55-75 degrees
of inclination of 400 m. approximately wall.
Return to Camp I at approximately 11:00 am
Day 5: High Camp 5400 m. - Base Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.
Descent to the glacier and moraine to Base Camp.
Day 6: Base Camp 4300 m. - Llamacorral 3760 m. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.
Descent to the
Santa Cruz Valley to the Llamacorral Camp. |
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Day 7: Llamacorral 3760 m. - Cashapampa - Huaraz. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours.
Descent along of Santa Cruz gorge to the village of Cashapampa. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.
06 DAYS OPTION:
Sixth day descent from the Base Camp 4300 m. to the village of Cashapampa - Huaraz. Walk approximately 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services. |
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IMPORTANT
The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.
The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .
Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.
The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.
We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with
canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.
Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide. |
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- INCLUDES
- NOT INCLUDES
- PHOTOS
- VIDEO
OUR SERVICES INCLUDE
CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: ALPAMAYO MOUNTAIN
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OUR SERVICES NOR INCLUDED
SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:
Clothing and equipment recommended |
Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.
Legs
- 1 Pants
interior
fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants
long and comfortable for trekking.
Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts
synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket
Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.
Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.
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Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.
- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).
Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
- Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes. |
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Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:
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| Equipo |
Costo |
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Equipo |
Costo |
| - Personal tent (2 places) |
5.00 us$ |
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- Down jacket |
4.00 us$ |
| - Personal tent (1 place) |
4.00 us$ |
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- Crampons |
3.50 us$ |
| - Sleeping bag |
4.00 us$ |
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- Plastic mountaineering boots |
5.00 us$ |
| - Simple mattress |
2.00 us$ |
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- Harness |
4.00 us$ |
| - Inflatable mattress |
4.00 us$ |
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- Glacier travel ice axes |
3.00 us$ |
| - Backpack (small 40 litres) |
3.00 us$ |
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- Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair) |
8.00 us$ |
| - Backpack (large 70 litre) |
5.00 us$ |
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- Climbing helmet |
3.50 us$ |
| - MSR Multifuel stove |
4.00 us$ |
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- Gaiters or leggings |
3.00 us$ |
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ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:
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Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.
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Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 30.00 per person "USD 10.00", valid for 01 day).
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Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 60.00 per person "USD 20.00", valid for 3 days).
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Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 150.00 per person "USD 50.00", valid from 4 to 30 days).
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Acclimatization hikes: Laguna Churup, laguna 69, laguna Llaca, laguna Ahuac, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Laguna Wilcacocha, laguna Uruscocha, Portachuelo - Llanganuco, Mirador Rataquenua - Pucaventana, Rajucolta, Paron Artesoncocha, Cueva de Guitarreros, Laguna Huacacocha, Laguna Auquiscocha and others.
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Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.
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Air flights from your country round-trip.
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Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.
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Assistance service, pick up and transfers from the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, by our staff, consult.
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Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.
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Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.
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Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.
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Additional expenses that arise in various situations like: Rescue and emergency insurance if necessary, Medical, travel, evacuation (We can manage it), repatriation, medications, medical exams and hospitalization expenses.
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Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain, consult with Scheler Artizon Trek..
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Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
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Not include tips for the sttaf.
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Minimum 3 people in the group.
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Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.
NOTE:
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Equipment for trekking and climbing that cannot bring, can rent it here in Huaraz. Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL offers rent of personal equipment for customers, taking into account the load limited with their airline tickets or who do not wish to purchase expensive equipment for the expedition.
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VIDEO CLIMBING ALPAMAYO MOUNTAIN |
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