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CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2022 |
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ARTESONRAJU (6025 m. - 19767 ft.), "The Mountain icon of the Paramount Pictures" |
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The Artesonraju mountain belongs to the massif of the Huandoy, the North is bordered by the Santa Cruz Valley, by the East with the Huaripampa Valley and South the streams of Morococha and Llanganuco, surrounds as a horseshoe the Parón Lake, with its form triangular in its slope, is one of the most beautiful snowy world and |
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especially of the Cordillera de los Andes. This magnificent ice pyramid is located in the white mountain range of Peru, between the streams of Santa Cruz by North and the halt on the South. To the North, its spectacular shape reminds the characteristic "Paramount peak" "Paramount Pictures" seen from the Alpamayo Base Camp.
The name owes it to his form of coffer, this polygonal embellishment in the ceilings and vaults of some buildings. |
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On August 19, 1932, e. Hein, and e. Scheneider reached the Summit for the first time from the vicinity of the Jatuncocha Lake, they climbed the spur East. and the North ridge.
Its two main routes. The first corresponds to the N edge; accessible by the Santa Cruz Valley and la Artison Valley, and the second by the face, to which it is accessed by the Paron Lake, located at the end of the Creek of the same name. The latter is renowned for excellent ice climbing that requires approximately 1200 meters of slope and slope sustained from 45 to 55 °, sometimes surpassing the 70°.
There are four main routes, the variant of the South Ridge (climbing for the first time by T. Sbrizaj, S. Semraj, and B. Naglić |
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on July 18, 1993) and the Normal or wall South East, climbing for the first time by k. Schreckenbach, H. Saler and k. Süssmilch on June 24, 1969. The East Ridge and the last, a combination of edge and wall East (access from Santa Cruz Valley, in the North), are less frequented.
It is important to remember that the ridge to the Summit of the "Arteson" is known for, due to the fragile conditions of its cornices. In the same way, there is enough risk of avalanches at the beginning of the season. At the end of 2008 an avalanche leave without ice almost 200 m. to the beginning of the wall, making the route made more complicated.
By:
Scheler Torres Agama
* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide
* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)
* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP),
official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).
* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru
Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL
Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú
Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash
* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA Ancash)
* Tour Operator - Adventure Tourism Service Provider (DIRCETUR Ancash)
www.schelerhuayhuashtrek.com
www.trekkinghuayhuashperu.com |
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PROGRAM INFORMATION |
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Duration of the program: |
04 - 05 days. |
Type of circuit: |
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape. |
Activity: |
Climbing. |
Altitude: |
6025 m. (19,767 ft). |
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Caraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Santa Cruz Valley (North) - Paron Valley (South West). |
Massif: |
Huandoy - Cordillera Blanca. |
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8° 57′ 4″ S
77° 37′ 56″ W |
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Caraz - Santa Cruz Valley - Paron Valley. |
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On August 19, 1932, E. Hein And E. Schneider reached the summit for the first time,
from near the lagoon Jatuncocha, climbed the ridge N. |
Escalation path: |
Route directly. SE Face. Paron Valley |
Minimum altitude: |
Caraz 2290 m.
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Maximum altitude: |
Artesonraju Summit 6025 m. |
Degree of difficulty: |
D+ - Hard - Technical Climbing. |
Season: |
June to August. |
Climate: |
Cold, dry and temperate. |
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From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided. |
Fixed departures: |
June to August |
Program code: |
SAT/ECB 016-E |
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ITINERARY
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ITINERARY 05 days: |
Day 1: Huaraz - Caraz - Paron Lake 4140 m. - Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. Travel by bus approximately 4 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.
Leaving the city of Huaraz by private bus
crossing different cities of the Callejon de Huaylas as Carhuaz, Yungay and Caraz, from here the transport continues to the valley and Paron lake at 4200 m., here starts the trek to Artesonraju Base Camp at 4500 m.
Day 2: Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. - Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. Walk approximately 6 to 7 hours.
Departure after breakfast to Camp I, uphill in zig zag to the glacier, here it is necessary to use materials of high mountains, then arrive to Artesonraju Camp I at 5200 m. |
Day 3: Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. - Artesonraju Summit 6025 m. - Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. Climbing approximately 9 to 12 hours.
Departure from camp, ascend the wall of 45-55 °, sometimes exceeding 70 ° degrees of inclination, until arriving at the summit of Artesonraju, panoramic views of the northern and central part of the Cordillera Blanca, later descends in rappels, arrival to Camp I.
Day 4: Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. - Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.
Descent to the base camp. |
Día 5: Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. - Caraz - Huaraz. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours. Travel by bus approximately 4 hours.
Departure after breakfast to the west side of Paron lake. Transfer by private transport to Huaraz, crossing the cities of Caraz, Yungay and Carhuaz, arriving at Huaraz, transfer to hotel. End of our services.
04 DAYS OPTION:
Fourth day descent from the High Camp I at 4300 m. to the Paron le - Caraz - Huaraz. Walk approximately 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services. |
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IMPORTANT
The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.
The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .
Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.
The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.
We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with
canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.
Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide. |
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- INCLUDES
- NOT INCLUDES
- PHOTOS
- VIDEO
OUR SERVICES INCLUDE
CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: ARTESONRAJU MOUNTAIN
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OUR SERVICES NOR INCLUDED
SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:
Clothing and equipment recommended |
Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.
Legs
- 1 Pants
interior
fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants
long and comfortable for trekking.
Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts
synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket
Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.
Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.
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Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.
- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).
Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
- Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes. |
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Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day: |
| Equipo |
Costo |
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Equipo |
Costo |
| - Personal tent (2 places) |
5.00 us$ |
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- Down jacket |
4.00 us$ |
| - Personal tent (1 place) |
4.00 us$ |
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- Crampons |
3.50 us$ |
| - Sleeping bag |
4.00 us$ |
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- Plastic mountaineering boots |
5.00 us$ |
| - Simple mattress |
2.00 us$ |
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- Harness |
4.00 us$ |
| - Inflatable mattress |
4.00 us$ |
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- Glacier travel ice axes |
3.00 us$ |
| - Backpack (small 40 litres) |
3.00 us$ |
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- Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair) |
8.00 us$ |
| - Backpack (large 70 litre) |
5.00 us$ |
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- Climbing helmet |
3.50 us$ |
| - MSR Multifuel stove |
4.00 us$ |
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- Gaiters or leggings |
3.00 us$ |
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ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:
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Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.
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Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 30.00 per person "USD 10.00", valid for 01 day).
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Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 60.00 per person "USD 20.00", valid for 3 days).
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Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 150.00 per person "USD 50.00", valid from 4 to 30 days).
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Acclimatization hikes: Laguna Churup, laguna 69, laguna Llaca, laguna Ahuac, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Laguna Wilcacocha, laguna Uruscocha, Portachuelo - Llanganuco, Mirador Rataquenua - Pucaventana, Rajucolta, Paron Artesoncocha, Cueva de Guitarreros, Laguna Huacacocha, Laguna Auquiscocha and others.
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Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.
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Air flights from your country round-trip.
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Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.
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Assistance service, pick up and transfers from the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, by our staff, consult.
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Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.
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Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.
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Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.
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Additional expenses that arise in various situations like: Rescue and emergency insurance if necessary, Medical, travel, evacuation (We can manage it), repatriation, medications, medical exams and hospitalization expenses.
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Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain, consult with Scheler Artizon Trek..
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Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
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Not include tips for the sttaf.
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Minimum 3 people in the group.
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Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.
NOTE:
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Equipment for trekking and climbing that cannot bring, can rent it here in Huaraz. Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL offers rent of personal equipment for customers, taking into account the load limited with their airline tickets or who do not wish to purchase expensive equipment for the expedition.
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VIDEO CLIMBING ARTESONRAJU MOUNTAIN |
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