CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2022

 
 
ARTESONRAJU (6025 m. - 19767 ft.), "The Mountain icon of the Paramount Pictures"
 

Nevado Artesonraju 6025 m. Cordillera Blanca

The Artesonraju mountain belongs to the massif of the Huandoy, the North is bordered by the Santa Cruz Valley, by the East with the Huaripampa Valley and South the streams of Morococha and Llanganuco, surrounds as a horseshoe the Parón Lake, with its form triangular in its slope, is one of the most beautiful snowy world and

especially of the Cordillera de los Andes. This magnificent ice pyramid is located in the white mountain range of Peru, between the streams of Santa Cruz by North and the halt on the South. To the North, its spectacular shape reminds the characteristic "Paramount peak" "Paramount Pictures" seen from the Alpamayo Base Camp.

 

The name owes it to his form of coffer, this polygonal embellishment in the ceilings and vaults of some buildings.

“Paramount peak” de la “Paramount Pictures”

On August 19, 1932, e. Hein, and e. Scheneider reached the Summit for the first time from the vicinity of the Jatuncocha Lake, they climbed the spur East. and the North ridge.

 

Its two main routes. The first corresponds to the N edge; accessible by the Santa Cruz Valley  and la Artison Valley, and the second by the face, to which it is accessed by the Paron Lake, located at the end of the Creek of the same name. The latter is renowned for excellent ice climbing that requires approximately 1200 meters of slope and slope sustained from 45 to 55 °, sometimes surpassing the 70°.

 

There are four main routes, the variant of the South Ridge (climbing for the first time by T. Sbrizaj, S. Semraj, and B. Naglić

on July 18, 1993) and the Normal or wall South East, climbing for the first time by k. Schreckenbach, H. Saler and k. Süssmilch on June 24, 1969. The East Ridge and the last, a combination of edge and wall East (access from Santa Cruz Valley, in the North), are less frequented.

 

It is important to remember that the ridge to the Summit of the "Arteson" is known for, due to the fragile conditions of its cornices. In the same way, there is enough risk of avalanches at the beginning of the season. At the end of 2008 an avalanche leave without ice almost 200 m. to the beginning of the wall, making the route made more complicated.

 

By:

 

Scheler Torres Agama

* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide

* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)

* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP), official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).

* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru

 

Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL

Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú

Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash

* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA Ancash)
* Tour Operator - Adventure Tourism Service Provider (DIRCETUR Ancash)

 

www.schelerhuayhuashtrek.com

www.trekkinghuayhuashperu.com

Rutas al Nevado Caras y Artesonraju
Virgen María Auxiliadora Yungar Cordillera Blanca
Laguna Parón

PROGRAM INFORMATION

 
Duration of the program:
04 - 05 days.
Type of circuit:
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.
Activity:
Climbing.
Altitude:
6025 m. (19,767 ft).

Location:

 

 

Caraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Santa Cruz Valley (North) - Paron Valley (South West).
Massif:
Huandoy - Cordillera Blanca.

Coordinates:

 

8° 57′ 4″ S

77° 37′ 56″ W

Approach path:

Caraz - Santa Cruz Valley - Paron Valley.

First ascent:

 

 

 

On August 19, 1932, E. Hein And E. Schneider reached the summit for the first time, from near the lagoon Jatuncocha, climbed the ridge N.

Escalation path:
Route directly. SE Face. Paron Valley
Minimum altitude:

Caraz 2290 m.

Maximum altitude:
Artesonraju Summit 6025 m.
Degree of difficulty:
D+ - Hard - Technical Climbing.
Season:
June to August.
Climate:
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:

 

From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:
June to August
Program code:
SAT/ECB 016-E
 

ITINERARY

 
Nevado Pirámide Garcilazo

ITINERARY 05 days:

Day 1: Huaraz - Caraz - Paron Lake 4140 m. - Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. Travel by bus approximately 4 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.
Leaving the city of Huaraz by private bus crossing different cities of the Callejon de Huaylas as Carhuaz, Yungay and Caraz, from here the transport continues to the valley and Paron lake at 4200 m., here starts the trek to Artesonraju Base Camp at 4500 m.


Day 2: Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. - Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. Walk approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Departure after breakfast to Camp I, uphill in zig zag to the glacier, here it is necessary to use materials of high mountains, then arrive to Artesonraju Camp I at 5200 m.

Day 3: Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. - Artesonraju Summit 6025 m. - Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. Climbing approximately 9 to 12 hours.

Departure from camp, ascend the wall of 45-55 °, sometimes exceeding 70 ° degrees of inclination, until arriving at the summit of Artesonraju, panoramic views of the northern and central part of the Cordillera Blanca, later descends in rappels, arrival to Camp I.

 

Day 4: Artesonraju High Camp 5200 m. - Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Descent to the base camp.

Día 5: Artesonraju Base Camp 4500 m. - Caraz - Huaraz. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours. Travel by bus approximately 4 hours.

Departure after breakfast to the west side of Paron lake. Transfer by private transport to Huaraz, crossing the cities of Caraz, Yungay and Carhuaz, arriving at Huaraz, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

 

 

04 DAYS OPTION:

 

Fourth day descent  from the High Camp I at 4300 m. to the Paron le - Caraz - Huaraz. Walk approximately 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

Nevados Huascarán, Chacraraju y Pirámide
 

IMPORTANT


The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.

The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .

Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.

 

The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.

We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.

 

Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide.

 
  •  INCLUDES
  • NOT INCLUDES
  • PHOTOS
  • VIDEO

OUR SERVICES INCLUDE

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: ARTESONRAJU MOUNTAIN

  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide, bilingual (English / Spanish).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters. Base Camp - High Camp - Base Camp.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing).

  • More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • High mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • All Kitchen and dining equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.
  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • Basic First aid kit.
  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Artesonraju mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).

OUR SERVICES NOR INCLUDED

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:

 

Clothing and equipment recommended

 

Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.


Legs
- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for trekking.

Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket


Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.

 

Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.


 

Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.

- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.

   

Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:

Equipo Costo   Equipo Costo
- Personal tent (2 places)
5.00 us$
  - Down jacket
4.00 us$
- Personal tent (1 place)
4.00 us$
  - Crampons
3.50 us$
- Sleeping bag
4.00 us$
  - Plastic mountaineering boots
5.00 us$
- Simple mattress
2.00 us$
  - Harness
4.00 us$
- Inflatable mattress
4.00 us$
  - Glacier travel ice axes
3.00 us$
- Backpack (small 40 litres)
3.00 us$
  - Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair)
8.00 us$
- Backpack (large 70 litre)
5.00 us$
  - Climbing helmet
3.50 us$
- MSR Multifuel stove
4.00 us$
  - Gaiters or leggings
3.00 us$
   

ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:

  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 30.00 per person "USD 10.00", valid for 01 day).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 60.00 per person "USD 20.00", valid for 3 days).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 150.00 per person "USD 50.00", valid from 4 to 30 days).
  • Acclimatization hikes: Laguna Churup, laguna 69, laguna Llaca, laguna Ahuac, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Laguna Wilcacocha, laguna Uruscocha, Portachuelo - Llanganuco, Mirador Rataquenua - Pucaventana, Rajucolta, Paron Artesoncocha, Cueva de Guitarreros, Laguna Huacacocha, Laguna Auquiscocha and others.
  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.
  • Assistance service, pick up and transfers from the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, by our staff, consult.

  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Additional expenses that arise in various situations like: Rescue and emergency insurance if necessary, Medical, travel, evacuation (We can manage it), repatriation, medications, medical exams and hospitalization expenses.
  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain, consult with Scheler Artizon Trek..

  • Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
  • Not include tips for the sttaf.

  • Minimum 3 people in the group.
  • Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.

NOTE:

   
Laguna Artesoncocha
 
Nevado Alpamayo desde la Cumbre del Artesonraju
 
Nevados Huandoys y Pisco, Laguna Artesoncocha
Nevado Artesonraju Cara Sur Oeste
 
Nevados Caras
 
Nevados Huascarán, Pisco y los Huandoys

VIDEO CLIMBING ARTESONRAJU MOUNTAIN

 

       
TOURS EN BUS
- Laguna de Llanganuco
- Chavín de Huantar
- Nevado de Pastoruri
- City Tours Huaraz - Monterrey
- Cañón del Pato
- Honcopampa - Chancos
- Laguna de Parón
- Bosque de Piedras Hatunmachay
 
ACLIMATACIÓN 01 DÍA
- Laguna de Churup
- Laguna 69
- Laguna Llaca
- Laguna Ahuac
- Wilcahuain - Monterrey - Huaraz
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra
- Laguna Uruscocha
- Paso Portachuelo - Llanganuco
- Laguna Rajucolta
- Mirador Rataquenua - Pucaventana
- Lagunas Parón - Artesoncocha
- Shupluy - Cueva de Guitarreros
- Laguna Hualcacocha
 
TREKKING 02 DÍAS
- Laguna de Churup
- Laguna 69
- Laguna de Llaca
- Laguna de Ahuac
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra
- Laguna Uruscocha
- Paso Portachuelo - Llanganuco
- Laguna Rajucolta
- Quilcayhuanca Laguna Tullpacocha
- Laguna Auquiscocha
- Laguna Aquilpo
- Quebrada Ishinca Trek
- Lagunas Parón - Artesoncocha
TREK CORDILLERA BLANCA
- Laguna 69 - Campo Base Pisco
- Quilcayhuanca trek
- Olleros - Chavín
- Honda - Ulta
- Ulta - Llanganuco
- Santa Cruz - Llanganuco
- Llanganuco - Santa Cruz
- Santa Cruz - Laguna 69
- Santa Cruz - Yuraccorral
- Santa Cruz - Colcabamba - Ulta
- Ulta - Santa Cruz - Cashapampa
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Pomabamba
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Ulta
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Santa Cruz
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Llanganuco
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Laguna 69
- Olleros Carhuascancha San Marcos
M
TRAVESÍA CORDILLERA BLANCA
- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Veloz
- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup
- Cojup - Ishinca
- Ishinca - Cojup
- Aquilpo - Ishinca
- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Ishinca
- Quilcayhuanca Cojup Ishinca Aquilpo
- Rajucolta - Shallap
 
CUSCO TREK
- Camino Inca Clásico 04 días
- Camino Inca Clásico 02 días
- Salcantay - Machu Picchu 05 días
- Salcantay - Machu Picchu 04 días
- Inca Jungle 04 días
- Lares Trek 04 días
- Ausangate Trek 07 días
- Ausangate Trek 05 días
TREK CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Diablo Mudo
- Huayhuash Trek - Pumarinri - Diablo Mudo
- Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash Clásico
- Trek Huayhuash Clásico Veloz 08 días
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Cutatambo
- Huayhuash Cutatambo 15 días
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Cajatambo
- Huayhuash - Cajatambo Veloz
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Churin
- Huayhuash Mini - Trek 04 días
- Huayhuash Mini - Trek 03 días
- Huánucopampa - Huayhuash Trek
- Huánucopampa Huayhuash Mini Trek 07 días
- Huánucopampa Huayhuash Mini Trek 06 días
 
TRAVESÍA CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH
- Cordillera Huayhuash Travesías
- Huayhuash Travesías - Diablo Mudo
- Huayhuash Huánucopampa Travesía
- Travesía Huayhuash Mini Trek Diablo Mudo
 
INFORMACIÓN HUARAZ PERÚ
- Perú
- Región Ancash
- Cordillera Blanca
- Parque Nacional Huascarán
- Cordillera Huayhuash
- Zona Reservada de Huayhuash
 
AREQUIPA TREKKING
- Cañón del Colca 05 días / 04 noches
- Cañón del Colca 04 días / 03 noches
- Cañón del Colca 03 días / 04 noches
- Cañón del Colca 02 días / 01 noche
- Cañón del Colca y Arequipa
- Cañón de Cotahuasi 05 días / 04 noches
- Ascenso Volcan Misti
- Ascenso Volcan Chachani
ESCALADAS
- Nevado Mateo
- Nevado Huarapasca
- Nevado Maparaju
- Nevado Andavite
- Nevado Huapi
- Nevado Vallunaraju
- Nevado Ishinca
- Nevado Urus
- Nevado Vicos
- Nevado Pisco
- Nevado Yanapaccha
- Nevado Tocllaraju
- Nevado Ranrapalca
- Nevado Copa
- Nevado Chopicalqui
- Nevado Huascarán
- Nevado Alpamayo
- Nevado Quitaraju
- Nevado Artesonraju
- Nevado Diablo Mudo
 
 
 
- Callejón de Huaylas
- Provincia de Recuay
- Provincia de Huaraz
- Provincia de Carhuaz
- Provincia de Yungay
- Provincia de Huaylas
 
CHACHAPOYAS
- Tours Kuelap
- Tours Gocta
- Karajía - Quiocta
- Mausoleo de Revash
- Gran Vilaya Trek
- Valle Huaylla Belén
- Laguna de Cóndores
Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú