Logo Scheler Artizon TrekNevado Huapi 5421 m. Cordillera Blanca

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA 2021

CLIMBING HUAPI MOUNTAIN 5421 m.

 

OTHER CLIMBING ROUTES

Climbing Maparaju

Climbing Huapi

Climbing Vallunaraju

Climbing Ishinca

Climbing Urus

Climbing Vicos

Climbing Pisco

Climbing Tocllaraju

Climbing Ranrapalca

Climbing Copa

Climbing Chopicalqui

Climbing Huascarán

Scheler Artizon Español Información del programa Scheler Artizon English
Duration of the program:
04 days.
Type of circuit:
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.
Activity:

Climbing.

Altitude:
5421 m. (17785 ft).

Location:

 

 

Huaraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Cojup Valley (North) - Cuchillacocha - Quilcayhuanca (South).
Massif:
Chinchey - Cordillera Blanca
Coordinates:
9° 24′30″S 77° 22′11″W

Approach path:

 

Huaraz - Quilcayhuanca Valley - Tullpacocha - Cuchillacocha.

First ascent:

 

 

 

 

 

One of the first route was performed by A. Szepessy and M. Soni, on July 5, 1948, amounted to the Cuchillacocha Lake the SW, moraines reached the col at 5000 m. the upgraded SW Huapi and the SW ridge to the summit.
Escalation path:
Normal Route SW.
Minimum altitude:
Huaraz City 3100 m.
Maximum altitude:

Huapi Summit 5421 m.

Degree of difficulty:
Easy (xx).
Season:
April to October.
Climate:
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:

 

From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:
April/October
Program code:
SAT/ECB 002-E
  •  ITINERARY
  • INCLUDES
  • NOT INCLUDES
  • MAP

INTRODUCTION HUAPI

 

The Huapi mountain belongs to Chinchey Massif; known as Jatunmontepuncu or Bayo mountain. Jatunmontepuncu name is a mixture of Castilian and Quechua, meaning: Jatun = big, forest mountain as less and Puncu = door or entry; referring to a mountain with a door or entrance. Maybe a pass of more than 5000 m. without snow on SW Huapi and a passage between Cojup – Quilcayhuanca valley. This minimal coverage snowy glacier at its summit has a magnificent panoramic view of six miles of this part of the Cordillera Blanca.

One of the first route was performed by A. Szepessy and M. Soni, on July 5, 1948, amounted to the Cuchillacocha Lake SW, reaching a low face tarns S. By moraines reached the col at 5000 m. the upgraded SW Huapi and the SW ridge to the summit.

Another ascent was made by S. Leppish, A Soriano and H. Vargas, on 27 September 1957, climbed from the col Pucaranra - Huapi, and NO side to the top.

 

By:

 

Scheler Torres Agama

* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide

* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru

* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)

* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP), official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).

 

Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL

Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú

Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash

* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA)

 

www.schelerhuayhuashtrek.com

www.trekkinghuayhuashperu.com

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ITINERARY

 

Day 1: Huaraz - Quilcayhuanca 3100 m. - Tullparaju Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.


Day 2: Tullparaju Camp 4300 m. - Huapi Moraine Camp 4850 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

 

Day 3: Huapi Moraine Camp 4850 m. - Huapi Summit 5421 m. - Kayeshpampa Camp 4100 m. Walk approximately 9 to 12 hours.

 

Day 4: Kayeshpampa Camp 4100 m. - Quilcayhuanca Valley - Huaraz. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours.

 

 

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IMPORTANT


The route is a model to follow, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the Government or another drawback of force majeure, this program can vary.


The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work.

Ruta de Trekking Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Parque Nacional Huascarán
 
Quilcayhuanca Valley
 
Bienvenidos a la Quebrada de Quilcayhuanca
 
Pinturas Rupestres Quilcayhuanca
 
Ruta al Nevado Huapi

OUR SERVICES INCLUDE

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: HUAPI MOUNTAIN

  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide (Spanish, English, Italian, French, etc ...).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing). More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • Mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • All cooking equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.

  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • First aid kit.

  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL ". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes

  • Trekking acclimation Churup Lake, 69, Llaca, Ahuac Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Wilcacocha Lake, Uruscocha, Portachuelo - Llanganuco Valley, Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana.

  • Entrance to the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Huapi Mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).

  • Map courtesy of the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash.

  • Hotel nights in Lima and Huaraz according to the program, in rooms (single, double or triple) with private bath, Tv., cable and Breakfast.

  • Assistance, pickup and transfers from the Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, by our staff.

  • Bus tickets Lima - Huaraz - Lima, special service, via Movil Tours www.moviltours.com.pe

Nevado Huapi o Jatunmontepunco
 
Nevados Maparaju, San Juan, Huantzán
 
Nevado Huantzán 6395 m.
 
Nevado Ranrapalca 6112 m.

OUR SERVICES NOT INCLUDED

SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT LIST FOR CLIMBING:

 

Clothing and Equipment Recommended

Feet
- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.


Legs
- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for walking.

Trunk
- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket


Head
- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 Pair of sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.

 

Hands
- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Equipment rental:
Rental price in U.S. $ (U.S. Dollars) per day.


- Personal tent (2 places) for rent: $ 5.00.
- Sleeping bag, for rent: $ 3.00.
- Simple mat, for rent: 1.00 us$.
- Inflatable mat, for rent: $ 3.00.
- Backpack (small 40 litres), for rent: $ 2.00.
- Backpack (large 70 litre), for rent: $ 5.00.

- MSR Multifuel stove, for rent: $ 3.00.

Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, binoculars, batteries.
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak.
- Insulating mattress (neoprene).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 10° C / - 15° C approximately).

 

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys.
- A backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of semi-automatic or automatic crampons.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or descenders, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.

 

 


 

- Down jacket, for rent: $ 3.00.
- Crampons, for rent: $ 3.00.
- Plastic mountaineering boots, for rent: $ 3.00.
- Harness, for rent: $ 3.00.
- Technical ice axe (pair), for rent: $ 5.00.
- Climbing helmet, for rent: $ 2.00.
- Gaiters or leggings, for rent: $ 2.00.

ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS:

  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.

  • TUUA taxes at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima: US $8.72 Domestic Flights, (S /. 23.54) - international flights US $30.74 (S /. 83.00) - departures flights aerodrome of Nazca USD 7.50 (S /. 21.00) per person.

  • The TUUA is the rate of use of airport and is included in the ticket only for some destinations. Taxes are determined by the Peruvian Government and are subject to change without notice.

  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Rescue, repatriation, medications, medical tests and hospitalization costs.

  • Medical insurance, travel, evacuation, rescue and emergency if necessary. (We can manage it).

  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain.

  • Excludes the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.

  • Excludes tips.

  • Minimum of persons in Group 3.

  • Departures in private on other dates from 1 or 2 people.

NOTE:

  • Equipment for trekking and climbing that cannot bring, can rent it here in Huaraz. Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL offers rent of personal equipment for customers, taking into account the load limited with their airline tickets or who do not wish to purchase expensive equipment for the expedition.

  • Bus service from the city of Lima - Huaraz - Lima, economic service, special service, via MOVIL TOURS www.moviltours.com.pe

  • Bus service from the city of Lima - Huaraz - Lima, service special, via the CRUZ DEL SUR www.cruzdelsur.com.pe

  • We also provide services of tours, hotel, transport, etc. in all Peru. Check our programs: scheler_artizon@hotmail.com, info@schelerhuayhuashtrek.com, info@trekkinghuayhuashperu.com.

ROUTE MAP HUAPI MOUNTAIN

 

Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú
       
TOURS EN BUS
- Laguna de Llanganuco
- Chavín de Huantar
- Nevado de Pastoruri
- City Tours Huaraz - Monterrey
- Cañón del Pato
- Honcopampa - Chancos
- Laguna de Parón
- Bosque de Piedras Hatunmachay
 
ACLIMATACIÓN 01 DÍA
- Laguna de Churup
- Laguna 69
- Laguna Llaca
- Laguna Ahuac
- Wilcahuain - Monterrey - Huaraz
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra
- Laguna Uruscocha
- Paso Portachuelo - Llanganuco
- Laguna Rajucolta
- Mirador Rataquenua - Pucaventana
- Lagunas Parón - Artesoncocha
- Shupluy - Cueva de Guitarreros
- Laguna Hualcacocha
 
TREKKING 02 DÍAS
- Laguna de Churup
- Laguna 69
- Laguna de Llaca
- Laguna de Ahuac
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra
- Laguna Uruscocha
- Paso Portachuelo - Llanganuco
- Laguna Rajucolta
- Quilcayhuanca Laguna Tullpacocha
- Laguna Auquiscocha
- Laguna Aquilpo
- Quebrada Ishinca Trek
- Lagunas Parón - Artesoncocha
TREK CORDILLERA BLANCA
- Laguna 69 - Campo Base Pisco
- Quilcayhuanca trek
- Olleros - Chavín
- Honda - Ulta
- Ulta - Llanganuco
- Santa Cruz - Llanganuco
- Llanganuco - Santa Cruz
- Santa Cruz - Laguna 69
- Santa Cruz - Yuraccorral
- Santa Cruz - Colcabamba - Ulta
- Ulta - Santa Cruz - Cashapampa
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Pomabamba
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria - Ulta
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Santa Cruz
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Llanganuco
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Laguna 69
- Olleros Carhuascancha San Marcos
M
TRAVESÍA CORDILLERA BLANCA
- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Veloz
- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup
- Cojup - Ishinca
- Ishinca - Cojup
- Aquilpo - Ishinca
- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup - Ishinca
- Quilcayhuanca Cojup Ishinca Aquilpo
- Rajucolta - Shallap
 
CUSCO TREK
- Camino Inca Clásico 04 días
- Camino Inca Clásico 02 días
- Salcantay - Machu Picchu 05 días
- Salcantay - Machu Picchu 04 días
- Inca Jungle 04 días
- Lares Trek 04 días
- Ausangate Trek 07 días
- Ausangate Trek 05 días
TREK CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Diablo Mudo
- Huayhuash Trek - Pumarinri - Diablo Mudo
- Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash Clásico
- Trek Huayhuash Clásico Veloz 08 días
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Cutatambo
- Huayhuash Cutatambo 15 días
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Cajatambo
- Huayhuash - Cajatambo Veloz
- Cordillera Huayhuash - Churin
- Huayhuash Mini - Trek 04 días
- Huayhuash Mini - Trek 03 días
- Huánucopampa - Huayhuash Trek
- Huánucopampa Huayhuash Mini Trek 07 días
- Huánucopampa Huayhuash Mini Trek 06 días
 
TRAVESÍA CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH
- Cordillera Huayhuash Travesías
- Huayhuash Travesías - Diablo Mudo
- Huayhuash Huánucopampa Travesía
- Travesía Huayhuash Mini Trek Diablo Mudo
 
INFORMACIÓN HUARAZ PERÚ
- Perú
- Región Ancash
- Cordillera Blanca
- Parque Nacional Huascarán
- Cordillera Huayhuash
- Zona Reservada de Huayhuash
 
AREQUIPA TREKKING
- Cañón del Colca 05 días / 04 noches
- Cañón del Colca 04 días / 03 noches
- Cañón del Colca 03 días / 04 noches
- Cañón del Colca 02 días / 01 noche
- Cañón del Colca y Arequipa
- Cañón de Cotahuasi 05 días / 04 noches
- Ascenso Volcan Misti
- Ascenso Volcan Chachani
ESCALADAS
- Nevado Mateo
- Nevado Huarapasca
- Nevado Maparaju
- Nevado Andavite
- Nevado Huapi
- Nevado Vallunaraju
- Nevado Ishinca
- Nevado Urus
- Nevado Vicos
- Nevado Pisco
- Nevado Yanapaccha
- Nevado Tocllaraju
- Nevado Ranrapalca
- Nevado Copa
- Nevado Chopicalqui
- Nevado Huascarán
- Nevado Alpamayo
- Nevado Quitaraju
- Nevado Artesonraju
- Nevado Diablo Mudo
 
 
- Callejón de Huaylas
- Provincia de Recuay
- Provincia de Huaraz
- Provincia de Carhuaz
- Provincia de Yungay
- Provincia de Huaylas
 
 
CHACHAPOYAS
- Tours Kuelap
- Tours Gocta
- Karajía - Quiocta
- Mausoleo de Revash
- Gran Vilaya Trek
- Valle Huaylla Belén
- Laguna de Cóndores