QUITARAJU (6040 m. - 19 816 ft.), "Faithful Companion of the Alpamayo Mountain"

Escalada Nevado Quitaraju 6040 m. Cordillera Blanca

The Quitaraju belongs to the Santa Cruz massif is a mountain frequented after making the Alpamayo, from its very high camp in the glacier you can make two mountains, adding one or two days more to the expedition.


In the face N and W ridge, this mountain it has a glacier

unites with the Alpamayo, for this reason the name in Quechua: Quita = tank or pond and Raju = ice, the ice supply would be. This is the first recorded route and is the actual normal route. The SE ridge is more complex and interesting for their walls large channels with sharp edges.

Quitaraju Mountain Cordillera Blanca

The first ascent it was on June 17, 1936, by the Austro-German expedition made ​​by A. Awerzger and E. Schneider, the approach it was through the valley of Alpamayo, Lake Jancarurish, Base Camp NW the Santa Cruz, Quitaraju and Alpamayo. From there ascended the hill between the latter mountains, and then climb to the summit by NW. At the present time is the normal route from the Hill.


The first ascent of the face and edge SE, it was the June 6, 1969, by H. Saler, H. Schmidt, B. Schreckenbach, K. Schreckenbach, K. Süssmilch, W. Weinzierl, its hard on the ascent climbing 3 days and a half and lowering 1 day and a half, Total made ​​4 bivouac. His approach was for Cashapampa, Santa Cruz and Arhuaycocha valleys and bivouacked on the edge of the glacier SE to 5250 m.

His face N view from the Hill or Camp I, it was first climbed on July 11, 1964 by Cotter, McKay and Nelson.


Other routes were open face S the Quitaraju, view from Jatuncocha lake, in the Santa Cruz valley were opened by Slovenian and English for that routes requiring much technical level and great exposure.




Scheler Torres Agama

* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide

* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru

* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)

* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP), official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).


Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL

Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú

Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash

* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA)

Virgen María Auxiliadora Yungar Cordillera Blanca
Laguna Jatuncocha Santa Cruz Llanganuco Trek
Nevado Alpamayo visto desde el Campo I


Duration of the program:
06 - 07 days.
Type of circuit:
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.
6040 m. (19,816 ft).




Caraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo Valley (North) - Arhuaycocha Valley (South East).

Santa Cruz - Cordillera Blanca.



8° 53′ 40″ S

77° 39′ 46″ W

Approach path:



Caraz - Callejón de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Quitacocha Valley (South) - Arhuaycocha Valley (South East).

First ascent:





The first ascent it was on June 17, 1936, by the Austro-German expedition, the approach it was by Alpamayo valley, Lake Jancarurish, Base Camp NW the Santa Cruz, Quitaraju and Alpamayo.
Escalation path:
Normal route NE Face.
Minimum altitude:
Caraz 2290 m.
Maximum altitude:
Quitaraju Summit 6040 m.
Degree of difficulty:
D+ - Hard - Technical Climbing.
June to August.
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:


From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:
June to August
Program code:


Vista del Quitaraju desde el Campo I

ITINERARY 07 days:

Day 1: Huaraz 3100 m. - Caraz 2290 m. - Cashapampa 2973 m. - Llamacorral 3760 m.

Travel by bus about 3 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Departure and transfer from Huaraz to Caraz city, then the town of Cashapampa, from this town started the trek to the Llamacorral Camp .

Day 2: Llama Corral 3760 m. - Alpamayo - Quitaraju Base Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.

Departure after breakfast, you will visit Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha lakes, in the way we see the snowcapped as Aguja, Caraz, Quitaraju, Pumapampa, Curuicashajana, Taulliraju, Rinrinjirca, Alpamayo, Pucarashta, Pucahirca, Artesonraju,

Paria, Millishraju, etc.. Arriving at the Base Camp of Alpamayo in the Valley Arhuaycocha, installation and preparation of materials for climbing.


Day 3: Base Camp 4300 m. - High Camp 5400 m. (Coll Camp Quitaraju - Alpamayo). Walk approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Departure after breakfast, climb up the moraine and then enter the glacier east of Alpamayo; Camp I, is the High Camp or Col of Alpamayo and Quitaraju mountains, glacier camp at 5400 m.


Day 4: High Camp 5400 m. - Quitaraju Summit 6040 m. Climbing approximately 9 to 12 hours.

Approximate departure at 1:00 a.m. Ascent at 60-80 degrees of inclination of 750 m. approximately wall. Return to Camp I at approximately 11:00 am


Day 5: High Camp 5400 m. - Base Camp 4300 m. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Descent to the glacier and moraine to Base Camp.


Day 6: Base Camp 4300 m. - Llamacorral 3760 m. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours.

Descent to the Santa Cruz Valley to the Llamacorral Camp.

Day 7: Llamacorral 3760 m. - Cashapampa - Huaraz. Walk approximately 3 to 4 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours.

Descent along of Santa Cruz gorge to the village of Cashapampa. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.





Sixth day descent  from the Base Camp 4300 m. to the village of Cashapampa - Huaraz. Walk approximately 7 to 8 hours. Travel by bus about 3 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

Inicio de la expedición Cashapampa


The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.

The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .

Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.


The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.

We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.


Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide.

  • MAP




  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide, bilingual (English / Spanish).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters. Base Camp - High Camp - Base Camp.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing).

  • More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • High mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • All Kitchen and dining equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.
  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • Basic First aid kit.
  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Quitaraju mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).




Clothing and equipment recommended


- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.

- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for trekking.

- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket

- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.


- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.


Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.

- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.


Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:


Equipo Costo   Equipo Costo
- Personal tent (2 places)
5.00 us$
  - Down jacket
4.00 us$
- Personal tent (1 place)
4.00 us$
  - Crampons
3.50 us$
- Sleeping bag
4.00 us$
  - Plastic mountaineering boots
5.00 us$
- Simple mattress
2.00 us$
  - Harness
4.00 us$
- Inflatable mattress
4.00 us$
  - Glacier travel ice axes
3.00 us$
- Backpack (small 40 litres)
3.00 us$
  - Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair)
8.00 us$
- Backpack (large 70 litre)
5.00 us$
  - Climbing helmet
3.50 us$
- MSR Multifuel stove
4.00 us$
  - Gaiters or leggings
3.00 us$


  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 30.00 per person "US$ 10.00", valid for 01 day).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 60.00 per person "US$ 20.00", valid for more 3 days).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 150.00 per person "US$ 50.00", valid for 4 to 30 days).
  • Acclimatization hikes: Churup lake, lake 69, Llaca lake,  Ahuac lake, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Wilcacocha lake, Uruscocha lake, Portachuelo - LlanganucoValley, Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana.
  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Bus Tickets Lima - Huaraz - Lima, special service bus - bed, bus semi - bed via, recommended: OLTURSA, CRUZ DEL SUR or MOVIL TOURS
  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Assistance service, pick up and transfers from the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, by our staff, consult.

  • Tax rate at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima: The TUUA is The Airport Tariff or Unified Airport Use Fee is related to the various services provided by LAP to passengers at the facilities of the Jorge Chávez International Airport, during the formalities of passenger dispatch, equipment, cargo and mail.
  • TUUA INTERNATIONAL ​US$30.43 ​S/.102.56​
    TUUA NATIONAL ​US$11.48 ​S/.38.69
  • The rate includes IGV.
    The National and International TUUA is included in the air tickets. Taxes are determined by the Peruvian government and are subject to change without prior notice. For more details about the TUUA, we would appreciate checking the following links: Rates and 2019 Access Charges, Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.
  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Additional expenses that arise in various situations like: Rescue and emergency insurance if necessary, Medical, travel, evacuation (We can manage it), repatriation, medications, medical exams and hospitalization expenses.
  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain.

  • Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
  • Not include tips for the sttaf.

  • Minimum 3 people in the group.
  • Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.


Inicio del Trekking en Santa Cruz
Nevado Alpamayo
Laguna Arhuaycocha, Nevados Pucahirca y Rinrijirca
Rumbo al Campo I del Nevado Alpamayo
Nevado Quitaraju 6040 m.
Rutas Alpamayo Climb y Santa Cruz Trek
Rumbo del Campo Base al Campo I del Nevado Alpamayo - Ruta Normal
Campo Morrena Alpamayo - Quitaraju
Rumbo al Campo I del Quitaraju - Alpamayo
Pared del Quitaraju



- Laguna de Llanganuco
- Chavín de Huantar
- Nevado de Pastoruri
- City Tours Huaraz - Monterrey
- Cañón del Pato
- Honcopampa - Chancos
- Laguna de Parón
- Bosque de Piedras Hatunmachay
- Laguna de Churup
- Laguna 69
- Laguna Llaca
- Laguna Ahuac
- Wilcahuain - Monterrey - Huaraz
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra
- Laguna Uruscocha
- Paso Portachuelo - Llanganuco
- Laguna Rajucolta
- Mirador Rataquenua - Pucaventana
- Lagunas Parón - Artesoncocha
- Shupluy - Cueva de Guitarreros
- Laguna Hualcacocha
- Laguna de Churup
- Laguna 69
- Laguna de Llaca
- Laguna de Ahuac
- Wilcacocha - Cordillera Negra
- Laguna Uruscocha
- Paso Portachuelo - Llanganuco
- Laguna Rajucolta
- Quilcayhuanca Laguna Tullpacocha
- Laguna Auquiscocha
- Laguna Aquilpo
- Quebrada Ishinca Trek
- Lagunas Parón - Artesoncocha
- Laguna 69 - Campo Base Pisco
- Quilcayhuanca trek
- Olleros - Chavín
- Honda - Ulta
- Ulta - Llanganuco
- Santa Cruz - Llanganuco
- Llanganuco - Santa Cruz
- Santa Cruz - Laguna 69
- Santa Cruz - Yuraccorral
- Santa Cruz - Colcabamba - Ulta
- Ulta - Santa Cruz - Cashapampa
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Pomabamba
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Vaqueria
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- Cedros - Alpamayo - Santa Cruz
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Llanganuco
- Cedros - Alpamayo - Laguna 69
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- Quilcayhuanca - Cojup Veloz
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- Lares Trek 04 días
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- Huayhuash Trek - Pumarinri - Diablo Mudo
- Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash Clásico
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- Huayhuash Cutatambo 15 días
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- Cordillera Blanca
- Parque Nacional Huascarán
- Cordillera Huayhuash
- Zona Reservada de Huayhuash
- Cañón del Colca 05 días / 04 noches
- Cañón del Colca 04 días / 03 noches
- Cañón del Colca 03 días / 04 noches
- Cañón del Colca 02 días / 01 noche
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Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú