HUASCARAN (6768 m. - 22 204 ft.), "The Highest Mountain of Peru"

Escalada Nevado Huascarán Norte 6655 m. - Sur 6768 m.

The Huascaran massif is best known and highest elevation of all ranges of the Peruvian Andes, in the Cordillera Blanca, in the Province of Yungay, it's only three snow mountains: Huascaran Soth 6768 m. the highest peak in Peru, Huascaran North 6655 m. and Chopicalqui 6354 m. and its name to the National Park,

and every year there is huge number of ascents, is the tallest tropical snowy land. The north face of Huascaran presents a rock of almost a thousand meters, for excellent climbing.

Its name comes from the Quechua waskha (string) and ran (stones or rocky mountains), so Huascarán means "mountain." Another version says that the name could derive from Huascán snow, which appears on the map of Peru, Ancash Department, Antonio Raimondi (1873). There are several legends about the origin of the name Huascaran, but the most likely is a dedication to the Inca Huascar, "The Inca Huayna Capac when by Yungay Was he named his eldest son Huascar to the highest and beautiful mountain ', so Huascaran that also means "The mountain of Huascar."

The conquest of the North summit, on August 2, 1908, was controversial for having questioned the rise of American Annie Peck, both of Swiss guides R. Taugwalder, G. Zum Taugwald, like his compatriot Fanny Bullock-Workman. Although some photographs of Peck to the Huascaran South could be taken near the summit of the North and the descriptions seem to match existing.

In 1932 he reached the South Summit, H. Bernard, P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider.

The next climb was in the year 1939 by the Austro-German expedition by W. Brecht, K. Heckler, S. Roher, K. Schmidt, H. Schweiser.

Amanecer Chopicalqui y Huascaran Sur - Norte desde la Ruta al Nevado Pisco

On July 8, 1953 amounted E. San Vicente and M. Villavicencio of the Mexican expedition.


On August 11, 1954 S. Villanueva, G. Cornejo, A. Yanac, J. Acosta and G. Yanac, made ​​the first ascent of Peru, and the fourth recorded at this North summit.

In 1970, an earthquake caused the release of a large mass of ice, snow and rocks of the north summit, causing the complete disappearance of the town of Yungay, killing more than 20,000 people. The earthquake caused extensive damage in many cities of called small north of the Peru, from Huacho in the department of Lima to Trujillo in the department of La Libertad. As the population of Yungay was buried by the avalanche that came from Huascaran North, Musho became the new starting point to normal routes of Huascaran North and South.




Scheler Torres Agama

* Peruvian Official Tourism & Trekking Guide

* Member of the Regional Association of Official Tourism Guides - Ancash (ARGOT - Ancash)

* Member of the Association of Official Trekking Guides of Peru (AGOCP), official member of the Unión of International Mountain Leaders Associations (UIMLA).

* Graduated from the Center for High Mountain Studies - CEAM - House of Guides in Huaraz - Peru


Scheler Artizon Trek EIRL

Scheler Trekking & Expediciones Perú

Expeditions to the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash

* Member of the Association of Travel Agencies and Tour Operators - Ancash (AAVOTA)

Virgen María Auxiliadora Yungar Cordillera Blanca
Campo Base Huascarán 4200 m.
Huascaran Sur - Norte Cordillera Blanca


Duration of the program:
06 - 07 days.
Type of circuit:
Climbing - adventure - scenic - landscape.


6768 m. (22,204 ft).




Yungay - Callejon de Huaylas - Cordillera Blanca. Minas Valley (West) - Ulta (South) Llanganuco - Ancush (North).
Huascarán - Cordillera Blanca.



9° 07′ 13″ S

77° 36′ 14″ W

Approach path:

Mancos - Musho Town - Minas Valley.

First ascent:







The conquest of the North summit, on August 2, 1908, by the American Annie Peck, with his Swiss guides R. Taugwalder, G. Zum Taugwald.
In 1932 climbed to South summit, H. Bernard, P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider.
Escalation path:
Normal Route via La garganta NW.
Minimum altitude:
Mancos Distrit 2520 m.
Maximum altitude:

Huascaran South Summit 6768 m.

Degree of difficulty:


D + - Hard - Something Ascension and Technical climbing.
June to August.
Cold, dry and temperate.

Group size:


From 01 to more people in a group, more than 15 people, the group is divided.
Fixed departures:
Program code:


Huascarán Sur 6768 m.

ITINERARY 07 days:

We recommend you make acclimatization climbs before climbing this route or to trek. After doing some acclimation, will depart for the HUASCARAN.


Day 1: Huaraz - Musho Town 3100 m. - Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. Travel by bus about 2 hours. Walk approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Transfer from Huaraz city to Musho district, from here starts the trek, ascending to the Base Camp.

Day 2: Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. - High Camp I 5300 m. Day trip approximately 5 to 6 hours.

Departure after the breakfast and climb up to glacier camp or Camp I.

Day 3: High Camp I 5300 m. - High Camp II 6000 m. Day trip approximately 5 to 6 hours.

We climb to Camp II, is passed through the channel and the avalanche zone, reaching the camp at 6000 m., in the area called the throat.


Day 4: High Camp II 6000 m. - Cumbre Sur 6768 m. - High Camp II 6000 m. Day trip approximately 9 to 12 hours.

Climbing to the south summit from where you have panoramic views of the Cordillera Negra, the Callejon de Huaylas and the snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca to the north and south, down to Camp II, it is possible descend to the Camp I, depending the physical condition. You can also try the northern summit, is needed for this one day more.

Day 5: High Camp II 6000 m. -Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. Day trip approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Descent to Base Camp, if there is time to do dry the material.

Day 6: Extra day or rest. This day is used in case of bad weather or try to climb to the north summit.

Day 7: Huascaran Base Camp 4200 m. - Musho town - Huaraz. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours. Travel by bus about 2 hours.

Down to Musho. Transfer to Huaraz. Transfer to hotel, end of our services.




In this option would not be necessary to have the extra day or rest.


Sixth day descent  from the Base Camp 4200 m. to the village of Musho - Huaraz. Walk approximately 4 to 5 hours. Travel by bus about 2 hours. Transfer to Huaraz on private transport, transfer to hotel. End of our services.

Campo I del Nevado Huascarán 5300 m.


The itinerary is a role model, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, manifestations, changes in government regulations or other disadvantage of force majeure, this program can make changes.

The programs of tours, trekking and climbing are made according to our experience of work .

Minimum 3 people in the group. Are also private departures of 1-2 people.


The GUIDE is the key to success in a mountain.

We work with Official High Mountain Guides, bilingual (English / Spanish), our guides are qualified professionals, with extensive experience, responsibility, safety in the mountains and accredited (with canet) to work in the National Park Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and other climbing routes.


Do not be fooled by false guides, require the card that identifies a
Tour, Trekking or Mountain Guide.

  • MAP




  • Briefing with the guide the day before the climb.
  • Qualified professional mountain guide, bilingual (English / Spanish).

  • Assistant guide more than 4 people.

  • High Mountain Porters. Base Camp - High Camp - Base Camp.

  • Cook.

  • Assistant cook more than 6 people.

  • Donkey drivers, donkeys (15 to 20 kilos per person, baggage and personal clothing).

  • More than 05 people emergency horse.

  • Transfer from Huaraz to different start and end points of the Climbing in private transport.

  • High mountain camping tent (03 squares are for the use of 02 people).

  • Mattress.

  • Toilet tent at base camp.

  • Kitchen tent, dining tent at base camp.

  • All Kitchen and dining equipment, plates, cups, utensils etc.

  • Tables, chairs, lamps in base camp.
  • All meals during the climb (vegetarian option). Breakfast, pick nicks, lunch and dinner.

  • Basic First aid kit.
  • Radio Communicator and cellular (coverage areas).

  • Permanent and personalized assistance from our Travel "Scheler Artizon Trek". Complete pre-departure, extension services or others themes.

  • Collective mountain equipment for climbing Huascarán mountain (ropes, stakes, screws, slings, tapes, etc.).




Clothing and equipment recommended


- 2 pairs of socks interior polypropylene.
- 2 pairs of thick socks cotton.
- 1 pair of hiking boots or shoes for the approximations.
- 1 pair of gaiters.

- 1 Pants interior fine synthetic.
- 1 coat pants.
- 1 Pants goretex or waterproof.
- 1 Pants long and comfortable for trekking.

- 2 sweatshirts synthetic interior
- 1 Polar fleece
- 1 Fleece jacket or similar
- 1 Rain jacket or goretex.
- 1 Down jacket

- Sunhat.
- Hat coat.
- Balaclava.
- Buff or scarf.
- 1 sunglasses 100% UV.
- 1 Ski goggles or blizzards.


- 2 pairs of gloves interior fine.
- 1 Pair of warm gloves in waterproof or goretex.


Expedition material
- Books, maps, Mp3 (optional).
- Camera, batteries.

- Binoculars (optional).
- Sunscreen (SPF 30-45).
- Sun lips (SPF 30-45).
- Insect repellent.
- Water bottle (at least 1 lt) with or without thermal liner. Camelbak (optional).
- Insulating mattress (neoprene or inflatable).
- Duct tape
- Toiletries bag.
- First aid kit for personal use.
- Headlamp with spare batteries.
- A 1 lt stainless steel thermos. with or without thermal cover (insulation) (optional).
- 1 Synthetic or down sleeping bag (- 15° C / - 20° C approximately).

Technical team
- Travel bag or backpack expedition for transportation of loads on donkeys or a backpack of at least 70 liters with pick holder and a place to fix the crampons. For the portaging of Base Camp to the High Camp I.
- A small and comfortable backpack of 40 lts.
- 1 Pair of double mountaineering boots (plastic outer) and temperature (- 20 ° C / - 25 ° C approximately).
- 1 Pair of crampons, according to the type of boot.
- 1 Pair of adjustable trekking poles (telescopic).
- 1 Pair of technical ice axes for technical mountain.
-  Harness, carabiners: safe and simple, 1 eight or atc rappel device, line, tape.
- 1 Climbing helmet.
- Stakes, bolts of ice, yumars, etc.
- At least 60 mts ropes.


Equipment rental:
Rental price in US$ (U.S. Dollars) per day:


Equipo Costo   Equipo Costo
- Personal tent (2 places)
5.00 us$
  - Down jacket
4.00 us$
- Personal tent (1 place)
4.00 us$
  - Crampons
3.50 us$
- Sleeping bag
4.00 us$
  - Plastic mountaineering boots
5.00 us$
- Simple mattress
2.00 us$
  - Harness
4.00 us$
- Inflatable mattress
4.00 us$
  - Glacier travel ice axes
3.00 us$
- Backpack (small 40 litres)
3.00 us$
  - Technical mountaineering ice axes (pair)
8.00 us$
- Backpack (large 70 litre)
5.00 us$
  - Climbing helmet
3.50 us$
- MSR Multifuel stove
4.00 us$
  - Gaiters or leggings
3.00 us$


  • Extra services not mentioned in the itinerary.

  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 30.00 per person "US$ 10.00", valid for 01 day).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 60.00 per person "US$ 20.00", valid for more 3 days).
  • Entrance fees in the Huascaran National Park - Cordillera Blanca. (S/ 150.00 per person "US$ 50.00", valid for 4 to 30 days).
  • Acclimatization hikes: Churup lake, lake 69, Llaca lake,  Ahuac lake, Wilcahuain - Monterey, Cordillera Negra - Wilcacocha lake, Uruscocha lake, Portachuelo - LlanganucoValley, Viewpoint Rataquenua - Pucaventana.
  • Extra nights of hotel in different cities during his stays.

  • Bus Tickets Lima - Huaraz - Lima, special service bus - bed, bus semi - bed via, recommended: OLTURSA, CRUZ DEL SUR or MOVIL TOURS
  • Air flights from your country round-trip.

  • Assistance service, pick up and transfers from the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, by our staff, consult.

  • Tax rate at the Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima: The TUUA is The Airport Tariff or Unified Airport Use Fee is related to the various services provided by LAP to passengers at the facilities of the Jorge Chávez International Airport, during the formalities of passenger dispatch, equipment, cargo and mail.
  • TUUA INTERNATIONAL ​US$30.43 ​S/.102.56​
    TUUA NATIONAL ​US$11.48 ​S/.38.69
  • The rate includes IGV.
    The National and International TUUA is included in the air tickets. Taxes are determined by the Peruvian government and are subject to change without prior notice. For more details about the TUUA, we would appreciate checking the following links: Rates and 2019 Access Charges, Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Drinks and food in the cities of Lima, Huaraz, or another city during your stay.

  • Taxi, laundry, telephone calls, etc.

  • Extra days for delayed departures or arrivals anticipated.
  • Additional expenses which may arise in various situations, contingencies, such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides of land, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in the regulations of the government, etc.

  • Additional expenses that arise in various situations like: Rescue and emergency insurance if necessary, Medical, travel, evacuation (We can manage it), repatriation, medications, medical exams and hospitalization expenses.
  • Rental of equipment for trekking or mountain.

  • Nor include the first breakfast, lunch and the last dinner on the routes of trekking and climbing.
  • Not include tips for the sttaf.

  • Minimum 3 people in the group.
  • Departures in deprived of 1-2 people.


Campo I y Huascarán Sur
Canaleta del nevado Huascarán
Campo II del Nevado Huascarán 6000 m.
Vista desde la Cumbre Huascarán, nevado Chopicalqui
Nevado Huascarán Norte 6655 m.
Cordillera Blanca desde la Cumbre del Huascarán
Pisco y Chacaraju desde la Ruta al Huascarán
Huascarán Norte desde la Cumbre del Sur



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Turismo, Trekking, Climbing Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash,  Huaraz, Arequipa, Cusco, Lima, Perú